Five
valves... Five stars
Yamaha's
five-valves-per-cylinder FZ was top dog in the fiercely-contested
750 class of the mid-Eighties. Bob Berry hops on to a carefully
modified version and gets all starry-eyed.
IN
THE mid-Eighties, the 750cc class was an area of intense rivalry
between the big four Japanese manufacturers. The MCN Superstock
championship - and the American Superbike series before it
- started a hi-tech war that lasted to the end of the decade,
accompanied by sky-high prices.
In 1989 Yamaha's latest street legal racer - the FZR750R
- would have lightened your bank account by some £12,500,
making even Honda's RC30 seem like a snip at a mere
£9500.
Going down the model range revealed similar rivalry at more
affordable prices and Yamaha's 'cooking'
FZ750 (if that's the right word for a 150 mph bike)
became top dog in the 750 class when it first went on sale
for £4500 in 1985 with only the Honda VFR750 (at £300
more) offering a slightly better all-round package.
The five-valves-per-cylinder engine was always the FZ's
outstanding feature. It is ferociously quick at the top end
but as docile as an overfed dog at lower revs. It will pull
strongly in top gear from 30 mph with a definite but barely
noticeable increase in power at 7000 rpm. Such a smooth delivery,
in fact, that I was frequently fooled into thinking I wasn't
in top (sixth) gear and tried to change up.
That power delivery makes brisk A-road cruising a doddle.
It disposed of traffic effortlessly and just a nick down by
one gear gobbled up lines of cars with ease, screaming happily
to the 11,000 rpm red line. What more stomp could anyone want?
The five valve technology was so unique that it even made
it into the world of F1 at one point. The in-line bank of
four cylinders is canted forward at 45 degrees putting the
weight low and well forward.
The carburettor arrangement is down-draught with much of the
space under the tank being taken up by the airbox.

Liquid cooled,
of course, and Yamaha claimed a power output of 105 bhp. As
one tester of the day put it, "For all types of road
riding from commuting to flat-out back lane attacks, it is
not possible to fault this power plant - it's one of
the best ever fitted to a modern motorcycle."
The same bike hack reported that the engine could stand fearsome
abuse too. "I went production racing on an FZ I'd
been using as a road hack for a year. It was serviced from
time to time and thrashed to death all the time. By the time
it reached the race track it had 20,000 hard miles behind
it.
"The only problem encountered racing it was the clutch
which let go after I had fitted some supposedly stronger springs
to it.
"It started to let go in the first hour of a six hour
race but held on just long enough for us to be sidelined by
a freak accident in the pits. The motor itself was perfectly
up to the task and had lost very little of its edge. After
track duties it went back to being a road hack and continued
to perform trouble free once it had the original springs back
in the clutch."
Words: Bob Berry
Pictures: Terry Joslin
|
Horror
story
Rod Gibson gets well on with refurbishment of the chassis but
a delve into the engine's sump oil reveals some nasty
internal bodges (again) which has caused major problems.
LAST month
I managed to dismantle Mark's Kawasaki Z650F1 down into
big lumps - and not without some difficulties.
The major problem was two of the front engine bolts which
were seized solidly into the crankcase and I had to resort
to carefully cutting through them with a hacksaw blade squeezed
between the engine and the frame tube in order to get the
engine out.
Now I've got the bike into smaller bits I can really start
work on the renovation.
As various bits will have to be sent out for powder coating
and plating, I've decided to get those bits prepared and sent
out first, then I was able to work on the engine while I waited
for them to come back.

1: I've
started by separating the cycle parts into piles, sorted according
to how they need to be refinished. This sounds easy, but remember
it may be some months before it all goes back together again
and it's worth taking lots of photos and making notes
as a guide when it's time to reassemble everything.
These are all the parts for powder coating.

2: To make the
job easier for the powder coaters, everything has to be degreased
and washed before it goes off to them. I'm using a small electric
parts washer filled with Miller's Millsol Green cleaning
solvent. It's a bit smelly, but it's a fast and effective
way of quickly degreasing parts and is an invaluable workshop
resource.
|