BLOOD BROTHERS
I
BELIEVE my Japanese import Suzuki 750 Katana is restricted
in power.
How can I de-restrict it? It revs out but there's no
real power at six to seven thousand rpm.
What would be the best aftermarket exhaust to fit and should
I run on leaded petrol?
Nick Macken, Diss.
This is a new one on me. Some Jap imports have a restrictor
attached to the speedo, some have rev limiters and ignition
mapping that hold the engine back. There are several import
specialists that might have the info to hand - unfortunately
I do not for this model. The equivalent UK/Euro model exhaust
should fit straight on so find a friendly dealer or manufacturer
with a stock system and nip down to try it before you buy.
CP
Mixed and matched
MY 1977 Suzuki GS550 has a top section from the 650 engine.
The carburettors are from the 550 and I find it very hard
to get the timing right. When I run it the plugs get very
black. The clutch is also very heavy even though I have changed
the cable and clutch springs. Why is it so heavy?
Daniel O'Connell, Limerick.
You
have a strange mix of engine parts indeed. The ignition timing
for a 550 is clearly marked on the advance/retard unit situated
on the right hand end of the crankshaft.
The blackness of the plugs can be many things, from worn rings
and valve guides to the different carburation and exhaust
system requirements of the 650 engine. You can check the compressions
to determine the condition of the top end. If all is well
the mixtures will need setting up.
The clutch stiffness could be down to several factors. If
the cable is new and well lubricated then start at the 'worm'
housed within the cover just above the gear lever. This worm
screw pushes a rod through the gearbox lay shaft to the clutch
outer. If this rod is bent or worn, it could be another cause
of friction. CP
Honda choker
THANKS for your previous help on my Honda CB77. I've
since got a 1995 Helix CN250S which has been used for courier
work and covered 35,000 miles in two years (52,000 now on
the clock) so it will need some work doing. The carb has an
automatic choke and the handbook says to let the temperature
needle go up two marks before riding away. However, the bike
stops at road junctions and also after a couple of minutes
on tickover. Would you say that auto-choke is shot?
A problem
with an automatic choke is that it will stay on until the
engine reaches its normal running temperature and makes the
engine run on the rich side for the first ten miles or so.
All that I can suggest is that you give the bike a thorough
service replacing all the filters and spark plug. With over
50,000 miles on the clock I would not expect the engine to
be as good as new but it should travel for a lot further yet.
At this mileage I would not expect that the auto choke is
shot.
The only manual that Honda now list for your machine is part
number 68KS400V priced at £8.64 plus VAT. DB
Honda under load
MY daughter has recently passed on to me her 1990 Honda H100S-J
(I know that's a bit new for Mechanics). The problem
is it will not pull away with less than 4500 revs. I know
I'm not light at 15 stone - my daughter is less than
nine stone.
Is this usual or do we have a sick bike? It starts and revs
freely but will not pull unless revving well. All of my two
stroke experience was on Bantams and Ariel Arrows so this
is a little new to me. I also own a 1963 G80 Matchless and
a 1976 GT250A Suzuki which is being rebuilt.
Stewart Freeman, Northampton.
Well,
don't tell anyone but my first motorcycle was an Ariel
Leader in the middle of the last century followed by a Ariel
Sports Arrow (glutton for punishment) so you and I have some
good memories of two strokes.
However, I did learn the error of my ways and purchased my
first Honda - a CB77 - in 1966 and have been a Honda man since
then.
As you say the engine will rev freely until under load I would
expect that your classic two stroke problem is a blocking
exhaust. The Bantams and Arrows suffered the same problem.
Also remember that this machine is only 100cc so it will need
to rev to give any performance. DB
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